Warning: most navigation systems do not work properly in Gjirokastër and most Albanians don't use street names. Gjirokastër has a new town next to the highway and an old town, with all the major sights, 100 meters higher up. You can find us in the heart of the old town (pazar), right next to Kalemi 2 on Rruga Alqi Kondi.
On foot: Buses leave you close to the round-about where the highway and the central boulevard of the new town meet. From here the old town is a short but steep walk up. Walk up 'Bulevardi 18 Shtatori' in the new town to another round-about (next to the football stadium). Take the road going up on the left side of the pharmacies (Laboviti st.). Turn left after 50 meters (you can see the castle straight ahead of you), when you've climbed this street for 300 meters you turn right at the crossing (with an Alqi Kondi street sign right in front of you), another 200 meters on this street and you're there.
Bus: To get from the new to the old town take a bus heading for 'Dunavat', 'Palorto' or 'Sh. Cerciz' (30 lek only). The buses leave from an area on 'Bulevardi 18 Shtatori' across the street from the Raiffeisen bank. It's slightly confusing, but these buses go down to the highway again and take another road up. Get off at Cerciz Topulli square in the old town (the square with a car parking and another Raiffeisen bank). Walk up the main road, take the first right, walk to the end of this little street and go right again, 100 meters down and you're there.
By car:do not go up Alqi Kondi street as it is one way (going down),do not park in the pazar itself. Go up to the old town either via Laboviti street or Gjin Zenebisi and park your car at Cerciz Topulli Square (you can see the hostel from there). Walk up the main road, take the first right, walk to the end of this little street and go right again, 100 meters down and you're there.
Taxi: A taxi from the new town to the old town should cost about 200-300 lek.
How to get to Gjirokastër
Bus: Tirana (4-5 hours), Saranda (1 hour) and all other big towns in the south of Albania have regular buses and minibuses going to Gjirokastër. There are also direct buses from the Greek cities of Athens, Ioannina, Thessaloniki, Kalambaka and Trikala with signs saying Argyrokastro (Αργυρόκαστρο).
Air: Corfu Airport is the closest useable airport to Gjirokastër. From spring untill autumn it has regular flights to many European cities. Corfu is a short boat ride from Saranda, from there it's another hour to Gjirokastër. Tirana Airport is growing quickly and is getting better connected every year. It's about 4 hours away from Gjirokastër. The airport of Ioannina is not very functional as it only has connections with Athens.